Amputation, Anyone? The Military Hospital Museum

The tour of the Spanish Military Hospital Museum was one I had not planned to take. For some reason, I don’t know exactly why, when I walked down Avila Avenue on Sunday the hospital did not attract. It might have been that I was just hungry and distracted. On Tuesday, after the Distillery tour, it’s equally possible that the New World gin and tonic, the taster shot of vodka and the taster shot of rum were influencing my decision. Anyway, I went in on a whim.

The hospital’s original name was Our Lady of Guadalupe Hospital, named after the American continent’s visitation by the Virgin. It dates from the second Spanish period which ran from 1783 to 1821. Originally the hospital comprised two buildings, one directly across the street but the second building burned in 1818.

I was the only person on my tour, and Katie, my docent, provided a bonus. She writes fanfic! She writes English Regency period stories set in the Harry Potter universe. Since the hospital’s history overlaps the Regency period, a lot of what she has learned for the tour is information she can use in her stories, especially if she has a potion master character, since the apothecary piece is a big part of the tour.

Yikes! Do you think my insurance will cover this? 17th century surgical instruments

Yikes! Do you think my insurance will cover this?

First, though, she walked me through the eighteenth/early nineteenth century amputation process. Amputations were surprisingly common. In a subtropical climate before pharmaceutical antibiotics, infection was a serious and often fatal business. It was better to remove the affected body part if the surgeon could. Katie had an array of instruments – a tiny guillotine-like thing that many cigar aficionados might recognize (used for amputating parts of fingers) while a chisel and hammer which was used for amputating a whole finger. For larger limbs the surgeons used knives to carve away the flesh, leaving a flap to sew up across the site, and a saw. Amputations happened quite quickly. They could remove a leg in a minute and a half. The patient was drugged on opioids (actually laudanum, an alcohol and opium mix).

The hospital’s survival rate for major amputations was about 70%. That’s poor by our standards but for the time that was miraculous. Up north in the newly-minted United States, the rate was about half that. Again, climate might have helped, especially in winters, but basically, Spain’s adoption of hygiene practices had a lot more to do with it.

In the eighth century, Berber Muslins conquered the Iberian peninsula. They ruled large parts of Spain for about seven hundred years. The middle eastern caliphates were at least a century ahead of Europe (if not more) in the areas of science, mathematics and medicine, and Spanish doctors practiced hygienic techniques even if they couldn’t articulate the reason for it. For example, surgeons washed their hands and their instruments with hot water and vinegar before and after each surgery. Once a patient was released, the mattress covering for their cot was washed in boiling water and lye soap. The Spanish moss that was used as mattress stuffing was also boiled, then carded and combed almost like wool. This killed any insects and also took care of a lot of germs.

Katie handed me some treated moss. It changes in both color and texture after boiling, which is good. Spanish moss would be itchy! The color was a chocolate brown.

You may feel a slight pinch as we drill this hole in your skull. Trephining tools

You may feel a slight pinch as we drill this hole in your skull.

Hospital surgeons also did trephining to relieve pressure in the brain. For those of you who did not read Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials trilogy, trephining means cutting a hole in the skull. This gives the brain a place to swell into without bruising itself against the walls of braincase. Later, when the swelling had subsided, the surgeons covered the hole with a silver coin. They probably didn’t know exactly why they used silver, but silver is seen as a metal with antimicrobial properties, so once again, it’s something that would have reduced the potential for infection.

The apothecary.

The apothecary.

Katie led me into the second room, which was the apothecary. Wounds, she said, were often packed with a substance called “lint,” made of isinglass and silk. Laudanum was, as you’d expect, the go-to pain killer. Other medicines included castor oil, mercury, quinine bark for malaria and other fevers, calendula as an anti-inflammatory and valerian to aid with sleep. Lots of herbal medicines were delivered in the form of an infusion or tisane; leaves steeped in hot water. Some were condensed into a tincture (preserved with alcohol). Cochineal, which is an insect and imparts a lovely red color to things, was also used as a medicine. “I like to say, ‘take your bug juice,’” Katie said.

I think this is calendula.

I think this is calendula.

I enjoyed all the tours I took (possibly I enjoyed the distillery tour the most) but the two best tours for a writer, especially a fantasy writer, were the Oldest House Museum and this one. They both gave me real world details. I’m trying to incubate a magical story, set in St. Augustine, with a female apothecary, old magic and maybe a Spanish soldier with a piece of silver in his skull?

This fine herbal and alcohol concoction is also tranquilizing. Gin and tonic.

This fine herbal and alcohol concoction is also tranquilizing.

 

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The Castillo de San Marcos

The Castillo de San Marcos pretty much draws the eye from anywhere on St. Augustine’s waterfront. The best pedestrian view is from the Bridge of Lions, but once you hit Matanzas Strait you can’t miss the stone walls to the north, perched on the very tip of the point.

Interior of Castillo de San Marcos

Interior of Castillo de San Marcos

The Castillo’s thick walls are made of coquina, which made the fort impregnable. British men o’ war ships would fire cannon balls into it, only to have the “crunchy” rock dent, sometimes even holding onto the ball (or so the story goes) rather than shatter.

Here is a close-up of coquina, although you can't see the tiny shells.

Here is a close-up of coquina, although you can’t see the tiny shells too well.

In 1702, British forces from Carolina, commanded by the Carolina governor James Moore, besieged the fort unsuccessfully for six weeks. Because they had attacked Spanish settlements north of St Augustine on the way down, the St Augustine alcalde knew they were coming, and sent messages requesting reinforcements. He also moved livestock, provisions and civilians into the fort. Moore shot cannon balls at the fort walls every day with no success and was routed by a reinforcement fleet from Havana on December 30. It is also reported that he set the city on fire before he left (and that he was forced to burn many of his own ships.)

I can attest to another benefit of coquina, especially in warm humid May weather; the thick walls naturally insulate and inside the fort’s buildings it was about ten degrees cooler.

The docent at the counter was chatty and helpful. His favorite story, or one of the them at least, is about the moat. The fort had a dry moat originally. It was in the twentieth century that someone decided a wet moat was needed. (I didn’t make a note of exactly when.) A wet moat would have been easy to dig, though, because the water table here is about eight feet. Once the water filled it, the fort’s foundation began to shift and cracks appeared in the thick walls. The Army Corps of Engineers hurried to drain the moat, and everyone said, “Let’s not do that again.”

This worrisome if artistic crack is what happens when you flood a moat alongside the fort walls.

This worrisome if artistic crack is what happens when you flood a moat alongside the fort walls.

The fort’s array of cannon was formidable.

Row of cannon facing northeast.

Row of cannon facing northeast.

Cannon facing the northwest bastion which is three inches shorter than the others.

Cannon facing the northwest bastion which is three inches shorter than the others.

Cannon detail.

Cannon detail.

Francis Drake burned St Augustine the first time. To the Spaniards he was a pirate and to the English a patriot. It seems like this burning of towns wasn’t very sporting of the British, but then again, Pedro Aviles Mendenez, founder of St Augustine, slaughtered 17,000 Huguenots in Matanzas Strait, so I guess nobody was really using their company manners.

The stone bastions were used for signalling.

The stone bastions were used for signalling.

The interior. Nice and cool in here!

The interior. Nice and cool in here!

The view from Avenida Avenue.

The view from Avenida Menendez

Across the street from the Castillo is the Pirate Museum. I recommend it. It is one hundred percent set up for kids to enjoy… and it is one hundred percent enjoyable and informative. Florida is practically Pirate Central for obvious reasons and the artifacts they have recovered from shipwrecks here are fascinating.

Diorama displaying archaeological discoveries.

Diorama displaying archaeological discoveries.

Pirates, of course, were brutal to the people on the ships they plundered, but they offered stock options to their own crew (every member got a share of the haul, even if some – the officers – got a bit more than others); and they elected captains by vote. And, as we all know from the first Pirates of the Caribbean movie, sometimes they unelected them, and sometimes they unelected them rather harshly. And, yes, there were women pirates and women pirate captains, quite successful ones.

Nautical tools on display at the Pirate Museum.

Nautical tools on display at the Pirate Museum.

Because I started the day at the lighthouse and the gator farm, I had my rental car. I could have walked to the Castillo and back, but I truly would have preferred not to especially when it started getting hot. If you’re active and athletic, find out if your B&B offers bicycles (the St Francis Inn did). That could be the perfect compromise.

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And Now a Word About Alligators

(Advisory: The sixth photo down is a snake picture. Scroll past it if snakes freak you out.) 

The main alligator lagoon forms the ground floor of the rookery, guaranteeing that no tree-climbing rodent predators (rats, etc) will be climbing trees to steal eggs. There is a smaller lagoon—a lagoonette?– in the center of the park. As I’m getting ready to leave this woman hops down into it, surrounded by about fifteen alligators. She has a pouch on her hip, a long pole and a microphone.

I don't think you could pay me enough to take this job.

I don’t think you could pay me enough to take this job.

“It looks like our big fellows here are slow and lazy, but they can move surprisingly quickly so we ask that you keep away from the edges of the enclosure, and do not drop or throw things into the enclosure. As the same time, we know that accidents do happen, so if you do drop something let a park employee know and we will retrieve it for you.”

Note to self; do not lose your glasses in the alligator enclosure.

See the gator approaching her with its mouth open? That's Warren.

See the gator  on the right, approaching her with its mouth open? That’s Warren.

“Many people think that alligators are the most dangerous in the wild, but the most dangerous place to be with a gator is where I am right now; among those raised in captivity, because they associate humans with food.”

Wave to Warren the Gator, everybody! From a safe distance.

Wave to Warren the Gator, everybody! From a safe distance.

What are you doing then? Get out of there!

“Gators raised domestically will do what this one right here is doing.” That gator is sliding toward her with its mouth open. “That’s Warren. See, he’s approaching demanding food.”

She throws him something from the pouch.

“And yes, we do name all our gators, because that’s something else people didn’t know until fairly recently. People thought crocodiles and alligators were primitive and acted mostly on instinct, but crocodilians have surprisingly complex brains. They are the only reptile to have a cerebral cortex, like humans, and they are smart enough to recognize their names.”

I don't think this is official park artwork. Are they birds? Or the spirits of bipedal mammals who didn't move fast enough?

I don’t think this is official park artwork. Are they birds? Or the spirits of bipedal mammals who didn’t move fast enough?

Wait, what? Able to tear your leg off, fast enough to catch you if you’re running, and now they’re smart, too? Oh, hell, no!

Standing there I have an epiphany, a terrifying moment of revelation, when the veil of denial shreds around me and I confront the terrible, naked truth.

Those four Lake Placid sequels SyFy did weren’t bad movies, they were documentaries. The reptiles are smarter than the primates. It was all true!

Galapagos Tortoise

Galapagos Tortoise

I petted a ball python. I also got to pet a baby caiman, whose snout was wrapped with one strip of packing tape, probably to reassure people that it couldn’t bite. The tape didn’t look too tight and the caiman didn’t seem distressed; it didn’t seem all that thrilled either. Reptiles are a hard read.

Park employee with a ball python.

Park employee with a ball python.

I saw turtles and tortoises including a Galapagos tortoise.

A caiman with its friend the turtle.

A dwarf caiman with its friend the yellow-spotted turtle.

I did not take advantage of this, but you can buy a photographer’s pass. You can get an annual one (I don’t remember the price) or a two-day pass for about $78. The special pass lets you into the park at 8:00 am (before opening), and lets you stay after 9:00 pm when the park closes, and allows you up onto a viewing platform overlooking the rookery. Photographers and bird lovers, this is the deal for you. Clearly, late April, early May is a great time, because it’s mating season and nesting season and there is plenty of action.

It’s a pretty interesting place. If you’re in St Augustine, check it out.

Two sandhill crance next to "Warning, Alligators" sign

And remember, alligators outside of zoos are plenty dangerous too.

 

 

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For the Birds

When I think of Florida, I generally think of three things: Disney/Harry Potter World, Cape Canaveral and alligators. My two recurring fears as I planned the trip were that the airline would lose my luggage, and/or that I would lose an appendage to a ruthless reptilian killer. (Spoiler alert: neither incident happened.)

Alligator snout and eyes. Icon of Florida, at least in my imagination

Icon of Florida, at least in my imagination

I had browsed the St Augustine Alligator Farm in the guidebooks and online and was undecided. First of all, my sense of alligator farms was formed mostly by books and movies depicting a sordid roadside attraction featuring a pond with one gator and an overall-wearing guy who wrestled it… and Karen Russell’s brilliant book Swamplandia. Honestly, neither image attracted. On the other hand, I was in Florida. It seemed clear that the Gator Farm was touristy, but I was a tourist.

St Augustine Alligator Farm Historical Plaque

The Historical Plaque

There were two deciding factors. The first was simply the proximity to the lighthouse. The second was the offhanded comment the docent made when I pointed out, with great excitement, the roseate spoonbill flying over the treetops below us. “Oh, yeah,” he said. “They nest at the Gator Farm. Egrets, spoonbills, hundreds of em.”

Roseate Spoonbill. This is what a roseate spoonbill looks like.

That’s what a roseate spoonbill looks like.

Really? Tell me more.

“Oh, yeah, a bunch of storks, other birds. People buy special passes and come early in the morning and after closing to take pictures.”

It was obvious that I needed to go to the Gator Farm.

Egrets and storks nest in an oak tree

Tree full o’birds

So I did.

The Alligator Farm is touristy, with a dino-primitive theme, and the employees are playing the theme from Jurassic Park with the gift shop with more than a touch of irony. The Farm calls itself the Zoo For You. It is a zoo, and if you are philosophically opposed to them, you shouldn’t go. They are accredited with the Association of Zoos and Aquariums.

Baby Albino Alligators

Albino gators aren’t eldritch and otherworldly at all. Nope, not at all

The educational piece is good, with lots of information about reptiles, specifically crocodilians (as you’d expect). There are, one of the tour guides said, 21 species of crocodilian in the world and they have at least one of each. I don’t think I saw all of them. They have tortoises, turtles, and snakes; Nile Crocodiles (their latest exhibit) and gators or crocs from all over the globe. They have an enclosure housing one of the world’s creepiest predators, a Komodo dragon.

Komodo Dragon

Anyone remember that Matthew Broderick/Marlon Brando movie, The Freshman?

The Farm has a small aviary with hornbills, parrots, macaws and toucans.

Toucan eats a bite of banana

Who knew what a toucan do?

But the jewel in the crown is something they didn’t even plan – a natural rookery.

Snowy Egret

Snowy Egret

Either the rookery was there already and they worked around it, or the local waterfowl figured out pretty quickly that a set of palm trees over a lagoon with a ton of alligators in it, where food appeared regularly, was a pretty good community in which to settle down and raise a family. The rookery, located over the main gator lagoon, provides for wood storks, ibises, three varieties of egret, three varieties of heron and spoonbills.

Little blue heron mama

Little blue heron mama

Little blue heron babies

Little blue heron babies

I took a few dozen pictures of reptiles.

Family of woodstorks.

Family of woodstorks.

I took over one hundred photos of birds.

It was a good day!

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To The Lighthouse

As I dragged my flabby carcass up the 219 steps of the St Augustine lighthouse the metal stairs began to hum. Sound filled the spiral stairwell, voices. I could make out tones, intonations, rhythms but not the words. Louder, more chaotic they grew and I squished myself against the wall as four women appeared from above, loping past me like a quartet of gazelles in spandex shorts and tank tops. They rounded the curve below me and vanished, their voices dwindling.

Spiral staircase -- only the first of 219 steps.

Spiral staircase — only the first of 219 steps.

My first, uncharitable thought: “At least it’s quiet now.” Alas, that was not to be.

I stopped for breath at the next landing and then trudged on, and at the landing after that, here they came, up from below, three of them at least, chins up, arms pumping. They had vanished up the curve when the fourth woman appeared,panting. She stopped for a hamstring stretch, then off she went.

I decided I hated these women.

Lighthouse. Through the live oaks it doesn't seem so high.

Lighthouse. Through the live oaks it doesn’t seem so high.

(“It’s fourteen stories to the top,” one of the docents said to a man and woman, both gray haired and slender, as I headed for the doorway. “You know that, right? Fourteen stories.”)

It doesn't look so tall here either, but that's because of forced perspective.

It doesn’t look so tall here either, but that’s because of forced perspective.

Of course I met the women again, coming down. I said to the fourth woman, gasping as she brought up the rear, “How many laps?” and she held up four fingers as I went by.

There is also a docent at the top of the lighthouse to share the structure’s history and answer any questions, even those about annoyingly fit women racing up and down. “They come every week,” he said. “It’s their Monday workout.”

Okay! Now it's looking tall. (View from near the top.)

Okay! Now it’s looking tall. (View from near the top.)

He also pointed out the stunning views in all directions from the top. He suggested I remove my hat, because it was windy up there.

The Pacific coast has a chain of beautiful lighthouses, and I don’t remember any of them being quite so tall. Of course, not to harp on it, the Pacific coast has hills. The Trinidad lighthouse, for instance, may be only one story high, but it sits on the point of a headlands. You just have to build higher when you’re starting at maybe four feet above sea level.

Looking west to St Augustine.

Looking west to St Augustine.

I saw an apparatus sitting out beyond the outer island and pointed to it. “Is that an oil rig?”

“Nope. That’s a sand dredge. It scoops up sand and we send it down a pipeline to south Florida for the beaches,” he said. Who knew? Not me.

In about the middle background of the photo is an apparatus.

In about the middle background of the photo is the sand dredge.

Lighthouse Park is more than the light station; there have been military installations here, and plenty of archaeological work going on. The park includes a play area for young children, a nature trail, and some nice exhibits about shipbuilding. The lightkeeper’s house hosts a self-guided tour and has lots of historical tidbits.

The view to the north.

The view to the north.

Going back down was a little easier. Then, due west across the A1A was the Gator Farm, which was impossible to resist.

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Coming to Saint Augustine

I left Cassadaga in a monsoon. At first I thought I was being a whiny tourist (“Oh, waaah! It’s raining!”) or at least exaggerating. The rain was so fast and steady that even with the wipers on fast the windshield was never clear. I was driving about forty-five on a 65 mph  highway… and so was everyone else. I’m used to California where people swoosh past me and splash me with their wake, and that wasn’t happening. I was moving the the flow of traffic. The water was not running off the road, because there wasn’t time.

Later I heard people in St Augustine talking about it, and they used the term “monsoon,” so I wasn’t wrong.

About forty minutes out of town the clouds broke and the rain slowed and then stopped completely. It was sunny with big fluffy clouds when I reached the St Francis Inn Bed and Breakfast in St. Augustine.

The St Francis Inn faces onto St Francis Avenue, which runs east-west, but, because the original building was Spanish style, the entry is through the courtyard, so the address, counter-intuitively, is on St. George Ave.While the original building had two floors a later owner added a third in the mid-nineteenth century and my room, called Lily’s room, was on the top floor, with two dormer windows. One overlooked St George at the house across the street which is part of the inn. The other let me gaze down into the courtyard.

I loved that courtyard. I loved everything about my stay there, and I will devote an entire blog post to them. For the purposes of this column I will say they are expensive (not the most expensive), but they are worth what you pay and like any modern inn, they add in a lot of bang for your buck, like a wine-and-snacks social hour, a dessert bar every evening, s’mores every evening and lots of free passes to tourist events. You get your money’s worth.

I got there early enough that I had time to walk around. My plan was to walk to the waterfront, three blocks away, and I did that but along the way I stopped at the Oldest House Museum, about four doors down from the Inn. Now, here’s a thing about St. Augustine; many of things they have are billed as being the biggest and/or the oldest. On “the oldest European [anything] in the continental USA,” they can make a pretty compelling argument, because St Augustine was settled by the Spanish in 1568 — they have records — and has been continuously inhabited by Europeans since then. For other things, tour guides and docents tend to have disclaimers and phrases like “We say we’re the biggest/oldest/best in Florida, because we can’t prove we’re biggest/oldest/best in the entire country….. buuut.…”

Exterior of The Oldest House. The green door would have been added during the British occupation period, since the original entrance would be have been through the courtyard.

Exterior of The Oldest House. The green door would have been added during the British occupation period, since the original entrance would have been through the courtyard.

In this vein, the Oldest House Museum may not be the oldest house, although the existing records make it pretty darned old. What they’ve done is used the house to showcase the various periods of European colonization; First Spanish Period, British Period, Second Spanish Period and Statehood Period. The house itself is called the Gonzalez-Alvarez house, after two of the owners. The original two-room house dates from at least 1721, when Tomas Gonzalez y Hernandez, his wife and 10 children lived there. It is low-ceilinged with a fire pit in the middle of the floor and a detached kitchen across the courtyard. The original house probably did not have glass windows, even though they existed, because Tomas would not have been able to afford glass on a soldier’s salary. The family slept on Spanish moss-stuffed pallets on the floor.

Those were some low ceilings. During the First Spanish period there would have been no staircase.

Those were some low ceilings. During the First Spanish period there would have been no staircase.

In 1763, when Spain ceded Florida to England as the result of losing a war, the Gonzalez family returned to Spain. An Englishman named Peavitt bought the place and turned it into a tavern, which was insightful, since the former Monastery of St Francis across the street had been turned into a barracks by the British. Peavitt added a wood framed upper story. His wife Maria was a successful midwife and developed the family fortune, but when she was widowed, since English law didn’t allow a woman to own property, she remarried a British soldier exactly half her age, who spent her fortune in about three years.

Welcome to the tavern.

Welcome to the tavern.

The territory and the city returned to Spanish control in 1790, after Britain basically lost its hold on North America completely, and a family named Alvarez bought it and expanded the second floor.

The detached kitchen

The detached kitchen.

The building materials used were part of the interest for me. The original dwelling was made of coquina, as were lots of St Augustine buildings. Coquina is a kind of stone made of fossilized sea shell. The natural lime in the shells creates cement. They quarried it on Anastasia Island. The stone is solid but porous, which turned out to be handy when British cannon were fired at coquina walls, because the walls would not shatter, they’d just dent. If you look at it closely you can see the details of tiny shells.

The other thing about coquina is that it’s stone and therefore didn’t burn. This was handy, because various people (coughBritishcough) burned St. Augustine at least twice.

The early water filter was another cool thing. This bowl is carved out of lava from the Canary Islands. It was filled with the sandy, muddy water from the eight-foot deep well in the courtyard, and the porous rock filtered out the sludge.

As our guide described it, "An eighteenth century Brita filter."

As our guide described it, “An eighteenth century Brita filter.”

The tour took about forty minutes and here was more to see about the development of St Augustine in the adjoining building. It was still bright and sunny when I left and headed down to Matanzas Strait, the Bridge of Lions and Cathedral Way.

 

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Time for a Reading

You probably don’t go to Cassadaga, Florida unless you are interested in, or curious about, spiritualism. And if you are curious or interested, you are probably going to get some kind of psychic reading while you’re there. If you don’t, it seems like you’ve kind of missed the point.

I didn’t miss the point. I got a reading at the hotel, from a woman named Aylah. I’m not going to go into the content, because for most of you that would be boring (and self-centered on my part); and besides, the most interesting part of a reading is the process.

Brittany (l) the barista who was my salvation, and Aylah, psychic reader.

Brittany (l) the barista who was my salvation, and Aylah, psychic reader.

I should note that, by using a hotel psychic instead of signing up for a reading across the street at the camp office, I was not guaranteeing myself a certified medium. (Aylah didn’t consider herself a medium at all.) The Spiritualist Camp Association certifies everyone who gives readings for them. Mine was a non-certified reading, but as of this date I have suffered no ill effects so I think it’s okay.

I chose Aylah from a slate of readers who were available that day. I screened out a number of others for arbitrary reasons. I skipped the guy who channels. One reader specialized in relationships. That is a broad category, I’ll admit, but I don’t have any concern about the primary relationships in my life, and that seemed like a waste of money. I can’t remember now if Aylah said on her write-up that she used cards, but if she did I didn’t remember it.

For the most part, the mediums work out of dedicated rooms in the hotel. The exception is the Saturday “table readings,” ten-minute readings that are done next to the coffee bar. It’s a semi-public place and didn’t seem all that appealing, but lots of the day-trippers who come there on the weekends get them. For my longer and more expensive reading (remember this is a living for some of these folks,) Aylah used a room around the corner from mine. The window faced west but there were sheer curtains drawn over it. She had two floor lamps and never did turn on the lights in the ceiling fan. The north wall had shelves that were covered with statues and figures; angels, Buddha, QuanYin, Ganesh, St Francis, Jesus, Mary, a couple of green men, a couple of fairy statues. The shelf was twined with twinkle lights and several statues had electric tealights in front of them. The soft lights were very pleasant. The closet wall and the wall behind me were draped with painted silk hangings.

Aylah had about four decks of fortune telling cards on the round table in front of me, and another five or six carefully arranged on a small side table behind her. Watching her work was kind of like watching a carpenter or a watchmaker; every tool for every specific purpose in its place. She would share an insight with me and then say, “Let’s see what the [deck name] has to offer us about that,” and spread those cards out for me to choose either one or three. She would use those to amplify the first observation.

I consider myself an open-minded skeptic, but Aylah won me over as soon as I sat down and saw that she had the Steampunk Deck on the table. I love the Steampunk Deck, and it’s a source of writing inspiration for me. I had never seen it used for divination and I said that. Aylah said she loved the artist’s art. When she gave me the deck to cut, the cards were smooth and worn. She’s used that deck a lot.

She had me pick three cards to start us off. She used the angel deck and something like the New World deck for follow-up. Usually, she would spread the cards out in a big face-down puddle on the table and I would choose three, so I don’t see how she could be forcing a choice (which is a stage magic technique). Once or twice she had me only choose one card.

One of the Steampunk cards that came up was the Two of Pentacles. “Any legal problems?” she said.

“No.”

“Okay, well,” she glanced down at the card next to it, then looked up over my left shoulder. She tilted her head a little.  “I just got… is there something with a contract?”

“Well, yes, actually,” I said, because I had just signed that contract for the novella – a novella, by the way, whose alternate world was inspired by the Steampunk Deck. I’m just saying.

Two of Pentacles from the Steampunk Deck

Two of Pentacles from the Steampunk Deck

When she asked me if I had any questions, I said that I wanted to know about her process. She seemed surprised. I asked if she saw entities or heard them. She said, “I don’t see spirits. If I saw spirits, I’d be a medium, and I’m not a medium. I’ve asked if I will be a medium and the answer is no. I hear them.” She said she has a partial hearing loss in her left ear, and that is where she usually hears the spirit voices.

Aylah comes from a family of women who gave readings; both her mother and grandmother did this. She is of Italian descent and I don’t know how she ended up in Cassadaga. She speaks Italian. I can tell you from the amount of running around she was doing on Saturday to find her clients that she is a popular draw at the place.

I wondered if cards appealed to Aylah because she doesn’t see spirits, or if she chose them for me in that particular reading because I was walking around with my camera. In the talk about spiritualism I attended on Saturday (my reading was Friday), Dawn said that certified mediumistic readers from the church do not use cards or read palms because they get guidance directly from spirit. Then she cleared her throat and said, “That doesn’t mean you’ll never find a deck of Tarot cards in a spiritualist’s house.”

Palm Reading Sign. Certified mediums do not need to read palms

Palm Reading Sign. Certified mediums do not need to read palms.

On Sunday morning, I talked to a couple who had stayed over. Val, the man, had a table read that he felt missed completely. He’d been disappointed, but then had a strange experience in the woods later in the evening that freaked him out and totally “made up” for the reading.

The hotel (and the camp) both have fact sheets about readings, and both of them say, more or less, that if a reader isn’t hitting something with you pretty early on, let them know. “Spirit doesn’t always show up,” seemed to be the gist of it. If you felt nothing was hitting and you ended the reading they would find you another reader or refund your money. Both places said they were reluctant to do that if you went through an entire half hour and then said you weren’t satisfied.

Readings are expensive; sixty dollars for half an hour at the hotel. I budgeted for that. (I actually budgeted for two in case I wanted to compare, but the spirit photography tour on Saturday night gave me a good sample of spiritualist info and I didn’t feel like I needed a second reading.) If you go there, you should treat yourself to one. After all, if you went to a famous spa for the weekend you’d get a mani-pedi, right? It’s the same idea.

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The Haunted Museum

The full name of The Haunted Museum is C Green’s Haunted History House and Museum, and it is indeed part haunted house and part historical archive. The place has been open since February, 2018, and frankly I think it needs, or at least deserves, more space.

Madame Mordida

Madame Morbida

They’ve used dividers and bookshelves inside the converted house’s rectangular space to create smaller rooms and the feeling of a maze or labyrinth. That’s neat, but the blaring of the talking exhibits, like the charming Madame Morbida, come through the dividers. It’s distracting.

The Haunted Museum can be disorienting.

The Haunted Museum can be disorienting.

The exhibit has some good information on George P. Colby and the founding of Cassadaga. They have a few items from New York and a display about the Fox Sisters who are credited with popularizing spiritualism in the USA. Years after the girls gained fame as mediums, Margaret confessed that they created the rapping and tapping people heard at their seances by cracking their toes much the way some people crack the knuckles in their hands. Years after that revelation, Margaret recanted the confession and lived out her life as a spiritualist.

A portrait of the Fox Sisters.

A portrait of the Fox Sisters.

I assumed that the friendly and knowledgeable young man with the bushy chin-beard was Varney from the business card (“Ask for Varney”) but I didn’t confirm that. I’m going to call him that for the sake of convenience. He told me the museum has some haunted dolls that are kept away under lock and key until they can create an adequate space to display them. The place that gives him the shiver, he said, is the seance room, which includes George P Colby’s seance table and a hand-tatted doily made by one of the Alderman family daughters. Varney says some accounts from Cassadaga say that the daughter continued to commune with Colby after his death.

He told me the way to the cemetary between Cassadaga and Deland, where Colby is buried. I couldn’t find the headstone, but that’s on me, not him. “It’s fifteen feet from the Devil’s Chair,” he said, “Which is just a big red brick chair.”

The Devil's Chair is just a brick chair in a local cemetery, but anything for a beer, right?

The Devil’s Chair is just a brick chair in a local cemetery, but anything for a beer, right?

Actually, there are two red brick benches in the cemetery in question, but only one is on top of the hill and only one is the Devil’s Chair.

Palm Reading Sign

Palm Reading Sign

The museum doesn’t carry books on local history, and he referred me to the camp bookstore… a bit reluctantly, I thought. He said, “Well, all things considered, the camp bookstore is your best bet.” That was the first example of any east side- west side tension.

As I was getting ready to leave a couple came in. “Will you be open later, like around seven o’clock?” the man said.

“Just an FYI,” said Varney. “In this town, everything except the bar in the hotel is closed by seven. We roll up the sidewalks… where we actually have sidewalks.”

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Welcome to Cassadaga

Basically, this is how you find the camp.

Basically, this is how you find the camp.

It’s not that Cassadaga, Florida, is hard to find. The directions from the Hotel Cassadaga website, plus Google, were clear. It’s just that it’s small and it doesn’t show on any maps. I think, but I’m not sure, that it is technically part of Lake Helen. Cassadaga is an Historic District, and before that is was a camp, never technically a town.

I felt welcomed as soon as I realized that the approach was named Marion Drive, although of course throughout the south when you see things named Marion, they’re for Francis Marion, the revolutionary war hero called the Swamp Fox.

As I got out of my car I heard a kite screaming in nearby trees. And then there it was, a Georgia kite, greeting me.

As I got out of my car I heard a kite screaming in nearby trees. And then there it was, a Georgia kite, greeting me.

As you drive into Cassadaga two buildings dominate. The hotel is a two-story, late 1920s stucco building with deep porch and some stained-glass features in the windows. Across the street to the north, the Southern Cassadaga Camp Association Office and Bookstore has the look of an earlier era, white clapboard, a wide wrap-around veranda and a hipped roof of corrugated tin. It reminded me of some of the old sugar plantation buildings I’ve seen on Hawai’i. East of the camp gates the buildings continue a vaguely island theme, especially in color choices; yellow, purple, blue, pale green, white and pink. Houses on the north side of the street look like homes from the early 1900s, with one or two mansions.

Hotel Cassadaga

Hotel Cassadaga

The Camp Association Office, Information Center and Bookstore

The Camp Association Office, Information Center and Bookstore

The most “imposing” building is not visible from the street and it’s the George Colby Memorial Temple. It’s not as graceful as the hotel or other camp buildings, but it is the center of the spiritualist activities and weekly services are held there on Sundays.

The camp gateposts. The camp area is open to the public from dawn to dusk.

The camp gateposts. The camp area is open to the public from dawn to dusk.

Cassadaga Road is the north-south divider between the camp and the rest of the village. West of the road, marked by the gateposts, is the camp, which got its charter in 1894 and is still mostly owned by the Association. The camp was founded by George P. Colby, who was born in Minnesota. He became a medium, much to the chagrin of his Baptist parents, and a spirit guide told him to go to Wisconsin and meet a man named Giddings. The two of them were to go to the south and found a camp in a place “of interlocking lakes and seven hills.” Off they went, and several years later Cassadaga was born.

Oddly, this building is on the east side of town.

Oddly, this building is on the east side of town.

Colby had tuberculosis, so the climate was better for him, and the church says that he cured himself by drinking water from a spring he discovered, and inhaling pine smoke. Soon Cassadaga became a winter gathering-place for spiritualists, especially those from Lily Dale, situated in upstate New York.

Summerland House contains the administrative offices of the Association.

Summerland House contains the administrative offices of the Association.

The hotel adds another slight complication to the split between the camp and non-camp psychics. The hotel was built by a spiritualist family on camp land, but the original building burned in 1926. The Association raised bonds to rebuild and created the building that stands there today. Started in 1927, the new hotel was ready to open in 1928. In 1929 a stock market crash signaled the start of the Great Depression. Many of the spiritualists were wealthy northerners and speculators, and soon the Association was unable to meet their bond obligations and were forced to sell the hotel. The hotel is not owned by spiritualists, but it is on camp property, and it offers its own slate of psychic readers. Life can get complicated.

Spirit Pond

Spirit Pond

Black panther stained glass detail in a camp house.

Stained glass detail in a camp house.

My favorite place in Cassadaga was Seneca Park, especially Spirit Pond, where I felt a sense of peace and groundedness as soon as I stepped foot on it. The pond seemed especially beautiful. My second favorite place, other than the hotel itself, was the Haunted Museum, run by a pleasant Florida man named Varney, who is its founder. The museum is small, half serious historical information about the area and paranormal doings throughout the world and half Halloween-night joke-spookiness, but he has only been open since February, 2018. More on the museum later.

Colby-Alderman Lake

Colby-Alderman Lake

Sandhill cranes, who pay little attention to tourists with cameras.

Sandhill cranes, who pay little attention to tourists with cameras.

The camp/village is sparsely populated and quiet, exuding a sense of peace, a meditative vibe… at least on weekdays. The weekends, well, that’s another story.

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We Interrupt Florida to Bring You the Noyo River Review Launch

The Noyo River Review held its launch party on Sunday, May 13, at the Gallery Bookshop in Mendocino. The bookstore has a deep and abiding relationship with the Mendocino Coast Writers Conference, and when the Mendocino Odd Fellows building was sold last year and the conference lost one of its reading sites, the bookstore stepped up.  The Review compiles work from the winners and finalists of the conference writing contests and includes excerpts of fiction, memoir, and poetry along with original (local) artwork. This year’s edition has a colorful abstract cover.

2018 Noyo River Review. Hey! I'm in the Table of Contents!

2018 Noyo River Review. Hey! I’m in the Table of Contents!

There were about 30 people in the audience (including the readers) and about ten people read, so the ratio was truly more audience members than performers. That’s always good.

Donna Banta gently and skillfully skewers Texas life in Still Life.

Donna Banta gently and skillfully skewers Texas life in Still Life.

A few things we heard:

  • A bit from Donna Banta’s darkly comic short story “Still Life.”
  • Cameron Lund’s bawdy and hilarious Young Adult selection Practice Makes Perfect.
  • A searing depiction of violent death, in Charane Sirrine’s memoir “Behind the Redwood Curtain.”

    Cameron's YA selection is laugh-out-loud funny.

    Cameron’s YA selection is laugh-out-loud funny.

  • Roy Dufrain’s novel excerpt (The Blues and Willie Armstrong) in which his main character recalls a formative moment in his childhood, filled with vivid detail.
  • Laugh-out-loud funny bit from “My Three Franken-Fems” by Aron Lee Bowe.
  • A short section from my story “Littoral Zone.”
  • Katie Pye read a playful, deep and sad poem written by Robyn T Murphy.

Several others, I didn’t get all the names. My apologies to those readers!

Roy Dufrain reads about one of those moments that shapes us.

Roy Dufrain reads about one of those moments that shapes us.

Susan Bono, who edited the anthology, started us off and introduced each reader. Everyone was courteous about staying to our 3-minute time frame.

Afterward, there was cake, with the cover of the journal iced onto it. Norma Watkins commented that the cake “needed extra editing.” When she arrived to pick it up, it had something else on the top. I heard a rumor it was a NaNoWRiMo themed thing. Anyway, she checked her proof-sheet, saw she had it right, and made them fix it. It also tasted yummy.

By the way, the  Gallery Bookshop has expanded. It had always been L-shaped, with a long section that ran back and formed the children’s section (which was where we set up). Now, the area directly behind the square room where the cash registers are is their space. It has a set of unusual stairs and hold journals, travel and craft books, reference and tchokes, technically called sidelines. It’s a big help and a good sign for the store.

Later I had drinks and dinner with Donna and Mark. Bartender stories will follow! All in all, a great event.

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